Friday, August 05, 2005

You Dirty Rat...


BBC NEWS | England | Cumbria | Rats are given 'shower cubicles': "Rats are given 'shower cubicles'

A colony of Cumbrian rats is challenging the age-old image of the dirty rodent by enjoying showers at a Lake District wildlife attraction.

They are part of a new feature at the Aquarium of the Lakes, near Windermere, which showcases UK wildlife.

The idea for the showers came after keepers noticed the rodents' behaviour whenever the plants in their display were watered.

Now a special 'shower area' is being created for the animals.

Aquarium of the Lakes spokesman Scott Davidson said: 'Whenever we watered the plants the rats would all stop what they were doing and gather together on a log where they all got a thorough soaking.

'They seemed to be enjoying it so much that we're now planning to give them their own special showers.

'Rats are naturally good swimmers and are also believed to be highly intelligent creatures.

Nocturnal journey

'As well as keeping them clean, the showers also provide them with some environmental enrichment which mirrors conditions in the wild.'

The rat colony is part of a newly-opened £200,000 feature at the aquarium called Midnight at the Water's Edge.

The new display area forms part of a major expansion to the existing site and takes visitors on a nocturnal journey along the riverside after dark.

The area features both aquatic and land-based animals including water voles, bank voles, harvest mice, frogs and toads, slow worms and brown rats."

Rats are having a shower...just singing in the shower, got my hot water power...

Latest suggestions for Rat names

Fancy Rats | Resources | Rat Names: "Latest Suggestions
1. Zaphod
2. Slartibartfast
3. Supernova
4. Benjy
5. Talona
6. Torm
7. Lolth
8. Talos
9. Tempus
10. Ilmater

neat names...

Treat Treat!

Fancy Rats | Information | Feeding: "Sprouts is a fun activity food for rats Purchase a small quantity of mixed corn, as sold for chickens. Line a shallow dish or tray with kitchen paper or tissue. Sprinkle a layer of the mixed corn over it and water until the seeds and paper are soaked. Ideally leave on a window sill in a warm room. Water as and when it drys out. The seed will soon start to sprout and when they are about 1-2 inches high you can give the whole tray to your rats, they love to dig around and eat the best bits. You may prefer to pick the sprouts yourself and feed them to the rats, but my rats actually sit in the tray and help themselves.

Unfortunately this treat is a short lived one, due to the constant dampness mould starts to grow, at this point they should not be fed to the rats and fresh ones should be prepared."

Yum theres nothing like fresh sprouts for a treat!

Play fighting with young rats

Fancy Rats | Information | Play: "

You can use your hand to play fight with a rat, tickle their tummies and chase them with your hand. They seem to respond as if your hand was another rat. Only young rats seem to appreciate this, an older one will simply look at you as if to say 'what are you doing that for'."

Its play Fight Club for Rats...don't break the fight club rules

Rat cursors are not swearing rats...

"To change your pc mouse click on this web link>>>CometZone - Category Search For RATS

Aloe Vera Vet Cream

Rat & Mouse Gazette: Product Review: Aloe Vera Vet Cream: "This soothing, moisturizing compound, which contains vitamins A, D, and E, is actually manufactured for use on horses and dogs for the treatment of dermatitis, abrasions, and skin irritations, but we have found it to be extremely effective on rat skin problems as well.

Most rat owners have, at one time or another, experienced diet related skin problems (AKA scabs or spots) with their pets. This cream, applied daily to the affected area, will clear up diet related scabs in a matter of days without any other treatment except modifying your pets diet (i.e., reducing the amount of protein and fat).

Skin problems caused by mites or lice should be treated with Ivermectin (1.87% horse paste, the size of an uncooked grain of white rice once, and again in three weeks) to address the cause of the scabs, but applying the Aloe Vera Vet Cream will help heal them much quicker.

RMCA ships this product and sells it at every event. It is also available through KV Vet Supply. (*See RMCA web site merchandise section.)

INGREDIENTS

Water, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Myristate, Propylene Glycol, Mineral Oil, Lanolin, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Aloe Vera Gel, Triethanolamine, Wheat Germ Oil, Citric Acid, Allantoin, Propylparaben, Methylparaben, Vitamin E, Vitamin A & D, FD & C Blue #1, Fragrance.

Readily available
Easy to use
Affordable


Comes highly recommended...ask your Vet today

Come fly with me...

Rat & Mouse Gazette: Flying Rats: "Have you ever wanted to be able to take your rat on a plane with you? Well, there are some airlines which allow your pet to travel with you in an underseat carrier, and others which allow you to ship your rat as cargo. Their rules and prices vary, but here are some which have flown rats, or have said they would allow rats on board if their conditions are met.

* Alaska Air is a companion company to Horizon Air. Rats may be accepted as baggage or cargo, but not as carry-on baggage. A health certificate issued within 30 days is required if crossing state lines.

* Ansett in Austrailia will fly rats. I'm not sure if they allow them as carry-on baggage, though. I didn't see any information regarding pets on their web site.

* American Airlines- no rats. (updated November 2004)

* America West will accept a maximum of three animals per flight. Your rat must also have a certificate of health signed by a veterinarian. This information came from someone who took rats as carry-on baggage. To fly two rats from California to Colorado in 1997 cost US$50.

* Delta does not allow transport of rats as carry-on, but only as checked baggage. (updated January 2004)

Looks like Delta only does cargo- separate- you have to drop off the rat at the cargo building- it is $168 to ship a box of rats. Phone is 1-888-736-3738. Rules: ship in container that is hard and not collapsable- ventilations holes- use mesh over holes if the holes are big. Don't need health certificate. Just give 24 hours advance reservations but not more than 7 days. Show up 2 hours prior to flight to check in the rats at the cargo building. (updated November 2004)

* Delta Dash is Delta Airlines' Air Cargo service, and has been used to ship rats.

* Horizon Air is a companion company to Alaska Air. Rats may be accepted as baggage, cargo, or as carry-on baggage. A health certificate issued within 30 days is required if crossing state lines. Horizon Air operates in the north western area of the United States.

* Finnair has been used to ship rats.

* Finnaviation has been used to ship rats.

* KLM Royal Dutch Airlines will transport rats internationally. In 1997, to send a rat from South Africa to Minnesota with a one-night stopover at a pet hotel in Amsterdam cost R1200, or US$240. The rat arrived in Minnesota in fine condition with no signs of stress. There is information on shipping pets on their web site, but the nature of their frames wouldn't let me link directly to it.

* Qantas in Austrailia will fly rats. I'm not sure if they allow them as carry-on baggage, though. I didn't see any information regarding pets on their web site.

* United Airlines will allow you to travel with rats. Search for "pets" on their site to find details about taking pets. Check directly with the airline to find out if rats are allowed as carry-on baggage or if they must be shipped as cargo/baggage. They require a health certificate. As of this update, United said no rats- but the lady didn't seem to know what she was talking about. (updated November 2004)

Always carefully check that the care that will be given to your pet is satisfactory to you before entrusting it to anyone else's care. If you send your pet as baggage or cargo, remember that the carrier will be outside on the runway when being loaded and unloaded. The weather conditions at both ends of the flight can greatly affect your pets' well being.

If you know of other airlines, anywhere in the world, which will fly rats, please let me know. The more information on their conditions that you can provide the better, but just the name of the airline would be a big help too.

You jetsetting rat you...

Thats one big Rat

Rat & Mouse Gazette: Type 2 Diabetes, Obesity, and Bumblefoot: A Possible Correlation?: "Type 2 diabetes in rats begins gradually and progresses slowly. In the early stages (three to seven months of age) there are very few, if any, outward symptoms present besides obesity. Onset usually does not become evident until a rat reaches middle age, usually around eight to ten months, and older. Symptoms in the rat include excessive thirst (drinking more than 2 ounces of water per day), increased urination (large amounts of very clear, diluted, urine), dry 'crispy' haircoat if kidney damage is occurring or if there is left-sided congestive heart failure present, a fine, glossy haircoat if kidney damage is not yet occurring, constipation, urine retention, fatigue, unexplained weakness in the rear legs, unusual clumsiness, paw shaking which can include almost frantic shaking and licking of fingers and palm on the affected paw or paws, unexplained itching, sterility in females, failure to bring litters to term, birth defects, failure of even simple wounds to heal, foot ulcerations including ulcerative pododermatitis (bumblefoot), unexplained weight loss, spontaneous interoccular hemorrhages (bleeding within the eye due to microscopic vascular ruptures within the retina), recurrent abscesses, recurrent respiratory infections that either do not respond to antibiotics or reoccur immediately after antibiotic treatment has been terminated, and pneumonia are all indications of possible type 2 diabetes."

Rats and type 2 Diabetes, Obesity, and Bumblefoot: A Possible Correlation?

Arthritis in Rats, A Remedy?

Rat & Mouse Gazette: Medical Corner: Arthritis in Rats, A Remedy?: "In the course of breeding a friendly, up-til-then healthy strain of Fawn Rex Dumbo rats, I discovered that one particular line produced a female rat who got what appeared to be arthritis at a young age. Her joints became swollen and locomotion became less graceful. In her sister's litter there were two more young females with this condition so I chose to close that line down for breeding purposes and keep or place the babies as pets, with strict warnings against breeding them. I gave one of the females away before she became arthritic (in checking up on her later I found that she had developed the condition) and kept one to care for myself. Her name is Marinda.

SYMPTOMS

Until four weeks of age, Marinda was a healthy, normal little rat. Then her paws began to swell, first in front, then, less drastically, in back. I started to research arthritis since all the symptoms (loss of flexibilty, swelling and inflammation of the joints, etc.) were a dead ringer for arthritis. I wanted to give Marinda back as much flexibility as possible and keep her pain-free. I tried a supplement or two, something related to grapes that I had heard about, and although it reduced the swelling a little it wasn't enough. Then I asked my vet about Glucosamine/Chondroitin on a tip from a good friend of mine who had used it on her horse. It is a supplement that provides essential nutrients which are diminished when arthritis occurs, substances that keep the joints lubricated and the cartilage intact, according to the article that I read at the vet's office (this was in Dog World Magazine, as I recall, probably the December issue). In discussing it with my vet (Dr. Zabel in Sugar Grove, IL, by the way, for any Illinois rat fanciers who may need a cooperative vet), we decided that there was very little risk to Marinda in trying this supplement since these substances are normally present in the body anyway in some quantity, and since none of them had potentially toxic components. Also, Dr. Zabel had seen good results with the use of these compounds for treating arthritis in dogs. We decided that the risks were minimal and the potential benefits strongly outweighed them. On the way home I stopped at Wal-Mart and bought Extended Release Glucosamine and Chondroitin dietary supplement (made by AmeriFit). It comes in caplet form. Suggested dosage for humans was six tablets per day. Cutting that down to rattie size and adjusting for the rapid metabolism of ratties, I thought to start out at 1/6 tablet per day, crushed, added to a tasty food for rapid consumption. Each tablet has 250 mg. glucosamine and 200 mg. chondroitin.

Starting with the above dose, I began to watch for changes. I noticed some improvement within about four days, mainly a slight improvement in Marinda's mobility and a more noticeable reduction in swelling. Since I had learned from Dr. Zabel that toxicity was very unlikely I decided to use a higher dosage and see if I could get better results. I bumped the dose up to about 1/4 tablet per day, crushed and served as before in soft food. Then I began to see better results. The swelling went way down, not quite to normal proportions but definitely much much closer. Mobility improved quite a bit to where Marinda could walk pretty well. Her hands were still a bit stiff and her back legs are not as mobile as I would like yet, but perhaps more improvement will occur. Sadly, Marinda managed to get an inner ear infection as well and so (despite treatment with chloramphenicol) has balance problems. But she has continued to improve to the point where she can now hold food and climb up into her hammock and get back out again. She seems happy and, if a bit weaker than the others, generally well. She is certainly very excited about getting her daily treat with the medicine inside!!!

A FINAL NOTE

In the course of checking back with the owner of Marinda's sister, I saw the sister again and was shocked to see how swollen her feet were. The contrast between Marinda (who at that point had been on supplements for about two weeks) and her sister, who had not started them yet, was very marked. Since it was obvious that this treatment had not hurt Marinda and had most likely helped her, I encouraged Marinda's sister's owner to try this supplement for her, too.

Try it out!

Odor Control Strategies

Rat & Mouse Club of America Articles Online: Odor Control Strategies for the Small Animal Caretaker: "Boy mice are notoriously stinky. One boy mouse can easily generate the stink of at least 5 girl mice or 5 rats of either gender. Relatively speaking, girl mice and either gender of rats don't smell at all! Boy mice are often discriminated against because of their odiferous nature, but they are otherwise just as deserving as any other mouse or rat. In this article I review various odor control strategies that may be used when caring for boy mice and other small animals.

'Odors' are those substances which are both able to reach our nose and able to elicit an olfactory response. 'Odor control,' then, is controlling those substances that reach our nose and/or controlling our olfactory response. Experts agree that the most important odor control strategies, in order of overall effectiveness, are source control, ventilation, and air cleaning. Another common odor control strategy, air additives, is also discussed. The occasional use of air additives is thought to be safe, but their continual use may affect health adversely. Notable exceptions include formaldehyde and ozone. Both are very potent toxins, and neither should ever be intentionally added to the air as an odor control strategy. All air additives should be used with caution.

Source control:
Clean often
Choice of bedding
Temperature and humidity
Feed additives and supplements
Bathing or use of pet wipes
Spay or neuter

Ventilation:
Opening Windows

Air cleaning:
Whole house air cleaning
Active room air cleaning
Passive room air cleaning

Air additives:
Perfumes
Antimicrobials or enzymes
Nerve deadening agents
Candles and incense
Ozone


boy! what is that smell?

My Rats having a meltdown

Rat & Mouse Gazette: Cooling Off...: "Cool Beans.....

don't work when trying to help your rattie beat the summer heat, but here are some other possibilites, many of which have been gleaned from the Rat List, other rattie folk, and some experience with keeping ratties cool in the hot Chicago summertime....

* Frozen chunks of fruits and/or veggies will keep your ratties cool from the inside out. If they are not pre-bagged frozen, and you are buying fresh to freeze, be sure to wash the produce before chopping and bagging and freezing....pesticide residues are bad news for ratties....

* Ice in a dish. Quick, simple, yet oh so satisfying. I have seen a hot rattie lick ice with great relish and seem much more comfortable afterwards, probably because the blood flowing through the tissues of the rattie's mouth is cooled by the ice, and as the cooled blood circulates through the rest of the body, it reduces overall body temperature. The cold water that is swallowed in the process has a similar effect, and additionally helps prevent dehydration. Plus, how else will you be able to see your ratties flap their arms? Unless you give them....

* Peas in a pie pan. Frozen peas with cool water. Your rattie may or may not be willing to wade in for the refreshments, but the possibility is good, and this can provide quick relief. Make sure to supervise adequately. This one can be messy; best done on a tile floor, not in the cage. The bathtub would be even better.

* Icewater in the water bottle. Same principal as the ice. Of course, ice won't fit into most water bottle openings unless it's crushed. A handy thing to do is simply have two water bottles and have one in the fridge cooling while the other is in use, and switch the two every couple of hours.

* Bottle full of ice. Save your old juice, pop, and water bottles--whatever size fits the number of ratties and the size of the cage. Wash thoroughly. Fill 3/4 full with water. Freeze thoroughly. When the the mercury soars, put a frozen bottle in with the ratties...they will sleep on or near it, and it will also lower the ambient temperature in the cage somewhat. It’s best to have two bottles per cage so you can switch off. Also, realize they may chew a hole in the bottle and soak the cage.....sometimes glass is best, but it can crack in the freezer.

* Spray Bottle--get a clean spray bottle--make sure it has no chemical residues. Put clean water in it. Refrigerate it. Periodically spray the rats down with it, as often as they seem to need it. This will not work well without adequate air circulation--a fan can help with this. Just make sure you don't soak the ratties and blast the fan on them--that's too stressful. Set the spray bottle to deliver a gentle mist, and set the fan so that it will move the air around the rattie, but not make it say, "Auntie Em! Auntie Em!"

Best wishes for a happy, healthy summer. Stay cool!

Cool Bananas...

Rat Accident Prevention

Rat & Mouse Gazette: Accident Prevention: "An ounce of prevention...'. Let me start by telling of a few near accidents which could have hurt my rats, even though the rats were in their cages. First, as a brand new rat owner, I gave baby Nellie a toy, a child's rubber ball the size of a ping-pong ball. The next morning, to my horror, there was only half a ball left. I was sure she was going to die, even though I found little rubber pieces all over. She must have eaten some. I was lucky nothing happened. Warning: although rats have iron stomachs, watch out for playthings or materials you rats have access to that could cause an intestinal impactation if eaten. I am not sure whether we can depend on the rats' intelligence not to eat harmful materials.

Next, still new, but by now having two rats, they were housed in a 20-gallon tank, but without a proper clip-on cover. So, I used a piece of screen and a wooden board on top to weigh it down. One day, while cleaning the cage, the board slipped and fell and hit one the rats on its tail. A board like that could have killed a rat if it had hit it on its head. Warning: watch what you use to cover your tanks."

Water Bottles
A few months later, by now having many rats, when I went into the rat room to say "hello", I noticed that one cage had no water. The bottle hung with the spout outside. Someone passing by, or perhaps the rats themselves, must have nudged the water bottle so that the spout slipped out of the cage. No big deal, but it could have been serious if not noticed soon enough. Lesson: check the rats water first thing in the morning and the last thing at night before going to bed. At the same time, you can make sure the ratties are all right. When you fill the water bottle, don't fill it all the way to the top. You must leave a little air space there and, with your finger, check whether the ball bearing in the sipper tube is working.

Wire Cages
When rats are in cages that are constructed of wire or metal rods, make sure there are no sharp rod ends on the cage that have not been properly deburred. When you put your rats back into the cages, if they are at all like mine, they want to come out again, so they sit in the doorway. As you lock them in, please be very careful that you don't catch a toe, foot, or tail, or worse yet, a little head, when you close the cage door. Always remember to cover wire cage bottoms or shelves so your ratties' feet don't get stuck and break a leg.

Other Household Pets
One of my very close near tragic accidents happened when I had a mother and eight babies in a tank on a coffee table. I was fussing in the ratroom when the doorbell rang and a neighbor came to chat. For one minute, I had not closed the door to the ratroom and my dog sneaked in there. He pushed the tank almost over the edge of the table while trying to catch some rats. This threatened to make the tank crash down onto the floor. For everyone with dogs and cats, be super watchful. I now have a toddler's gate in addition to the regular door to ensure that the dog can't get in. There have been many sad cases where pet rats were killed by other household pets. Don't let that happen in your home.

Tables, Counters etc
Let's talk about the danger of free-range rats. Mine are not free-range, but they all have time out of their cages on a large play-counter with boxes and toys. The counter is three feet off of the ground. Several times I found a rat that had jumped or fallen to the floor. At first, I could not figure out how, but every time a rat had fallen to the floor, I found something else on the floor as well - a toy, a paper dish, a cookie box, etc... Then, one day a rat fell down right in front of me and I saw how it happened. She had built her usual stack of emergency rations and was carrying an ear of corn along the counter to contribute to it. As she ran close to the edge, the corn pulled her down and both plummeted to the floor. The floor was carpeted, thank goodness, but it could have been bad. So far, with quite a few falls, there have been no broken bones. I watched them carry heavy stuff along and almost fall over the edge again. So now, I am very careful not to leave any food dish or light toy near the edge, but put it close to the wall and weigh down light cardboard boxes. Warning: watch that your rat does not play on a high place with something heavy like a book that may fall on top of him.

There are so many dangers for free-range ratties, especially on the floor, I cannot possibly list them all here, but you have to be paranoid and anticipate what could happen. Let me tell you of a few tragic accidents that I am aware of. Rocking chairs, recliners, and sofa-beds: Rats have been crushed under or in these deadly contraptions, so always be aware of where your rats are when using one of these pieces of furniture. Rats running on the floor? I don't know whether there is any great danger of them being stepped on with their propensity for running along walls and staying away from large open spaces (Editor's Note: I can assure you it is a great danger.), but I, who have stepped on my dog many times, would not want a rat underfoot. I know of two sad instances where a rat was crushed in a door being shut, the owner being unaware that the rat was quickly following. I have heard of rats being lost for good while investigating holes, windows or open doors...

Wires, Chemicals etc
A lot has been written already about electrical wires and how to safeguard your rat from being electrocuted, so I will not go over this again, other than to say that Radio Shack sells a protective sheath specifically made to protect electrical wires. Buy it if you have free-range ratties!

Other dangers are fireplaces, woodburning stoves, gas or electric ranges with stuff boiling or cooking on them, toilets, refrigerators, washing machines, and electric fans. You must also think about all of the chemicals, cleaners, and drugs we have around the house. Again, one shouldn't depend on the rats not eating what is not supposed to be eaten. Just this week, I put some Aloe Vera Vet Cream on a ratties back and while doing this, two other rats descended upon the container which I hadn't closed yet, and took big mouthfuls of that cream. They are still alive, so the cream must be pretty harmless, but still, it reinforces the warning to be watchful of what the rats have access to.

Heat
Please don't ever leave rats in a car with the windows rolled up at any time of the year, but when going to a show in the hot summer months, take extra precautions to keep the rats cool.

Plants
Poisonous ornamental plants are in many households. Know the plants you bring into your home if you have free-range rats. Even the Poinsettia we all have in our homes at Christmas is poisonous.

Children
Another accident warning: Children! Not all children are little angels. Some are too young to be allowed to handle rats. I know of one case where a boy choked a rat to death or broke its neck - not intentionally, but by handling it incorrectly. A small girl threw her sister's rat against a wall, killing it instantly, and in yet another case, some children, after catching two loose rats and putting them back in the cage, then left the cage standing in the blazing hot summer sun. Those rats must have died a terrible death! Do not ever leave your rats outside in the sun.

Yes, accidents happen, but they don't have to happen. Accidents are preventable - all it takes is proper care and forethought!

Prevention is better than cure!!!!

Corn in the Rat Diet

Rat & Mouse Club of America Articles Online: Corn in the Rat Diet: "Corn in the rat diet should be limited. Why? The other myco!

Mycotoxins, toxic metabolites produced by fungi, are common contaminants of grains and other food products. Aflatoxin and fumonisin, two of the most well known mycotoxins, are known animal carcinogens and are largely found as contaminants of corn.

Aflatoxin causes liver, kidney, and colon cancers in rats. The TD50 is the chronic dose-rate in mg/kg/day, which causes tumors in half of the population and is a measure of carcinogenic potency. The aflatoxin TD50 in rats is 0.0032 mg/kg/day. Assuming the daily food consumption of rats to be about 10g / 100g, this translates to aflatoxin levels of 32 ppb in the rat diet. Aflatoxin has also been classified as a known human carcinogen, and aflatoxin levels are therefore regulated by the FDA and USDA. Aflatoxin levels in human and pet foods may not exceed 20 ppb, and aflatoxin levels in other animal feeds may not exceed 300 ppb.

Rats are the species most sensitive to aflatoxin. Based on epidemiological studies, rats are estimated to be about 10,000 times more sensitive to the effects of aflatoxin than are humans. Thus, the FDA-set maximum allowable level of aflatoxin allowed in human and pet foods, 20 ppb, may not be set low enough to protect rats from the effects of aflatoxin.

Fumonisin causes liver cancer in rats. The fumonisin TD50 in rats is 1.16 mg/kg/day. Assuming the daily food consumption of rats to be about 10g / 100g, this translates to fumonisin levels of 11.6 ppm in the rat diet. It is unknown if fumonisin is a human carcinogen, and fumonisin levels are therefore not regulated. The FDA has set guidance levels for fumonisin levels in human foods and animal feeds on the order of ppm and 100's of ppm, respectively, but, again, these are only recommended levels and fumonisin levels are not regulated.

Aflatoxin is a common contaminant of corn and peanuts and their products, and fumonisin is a common contaminant of corn and corn products. In these foods, aflatoxin and fumonisin most likely occur at levels, which are carcinogenic to rats; so feeding a daily diet, which consisted only of these foods, would result in liver, kidney, and colon tumors in many of the rats. Feeding a daily diet limited in corn and peanuts and their products reduces aflatoxin and fumonisin levels and reduces associated tumor risks.

Please take care as Rats are sensitive fury beings.

Rats and Chocolate

Rat & Mouse Gazette: Chocolate and Rats: "Working as a veterinary technician in a practice that has numerous rat and mouse owners as clients I am often asked if chocolate is toxic to their pets.

My initial reaction was to apply the same guidelines we use for dogs to murines (rats and mice), but then became curious if there were any actual studies doneon these species which would give specifics. First, it is important to understand what is toxic about chocolate in species that are susceptible to chocolate poisoning. It is the theobromine in chocolate which in large amounts has diuretic effects, relaxes smooth muscles, and stimulates the heart and central nervous system. Caffeine has a greater effect on the central nervous system and is also found in small amounts in chocolate. Pharmacologically, theobromine is included in a group of naturally occurring methylxanthine alkaloids along with caffeine, theophylline, and the synthetics, aminophylline and etamiphylline. Relative to other methylxanthines, theobromine is pharmacologically weak. Theobromine, as well as other drugs mentioned do have therapeutic effects when given at the proper dosage and are used in the treatment of respiratory diseases and heart disease.

I have treated my own rat with aminophylline (dose prescribed by my veterinarian) when in the final stages of Mycoplasmosis. This is a bronchial dilator and did offer her some relief. I had a necropsy done atWashington State University and they found no side effects from the aminophylline treatment. Theobromine is found in higher concentration in unsweetened baker's chocolate (15mg/g) than in milk chocolate (1.5 mg/g). White chocolate is low enough in both theobromine and caffeine and would be unlikely to cause poisoning."

My conclusion is that an occasional, small piece of chocolate is certainly not going to kill my rats and I know they really enjoy it. Chocolate has no nutritional value for me either, but I hope no one denies me my Almond Joy! I think the important aspect is for the owner to use common sense when giving this treat, just as in feeding your rats in general. They must be given a complete, nutritious diet. I feel you have a higher likelihood of losing your pet to Mycoplasmosis, or to tumors than to chocolate toxicity.

These are 2 of my favourite things...Rats and Chocolate...in that order.

Variety is the spice of life...

Rat species, strains, breeds and types: "Variety

Pet rats are quite variable in appearance -- they may have different colors and markings, their fur may be straight or wavy, they may have no fur at all, their ears may be low-set, they may have long or short or absent tails.

This kaleidoscope of rat variation is loosely divided into varieties or types (e.g. RMCA and AFRMA). A variety is arbitrarily defined as a group of rats that share a single physical trait. For example, rats with curly fur belong to the 'rex' variety, rats with low-set ears are called 'dumbo,' rats without hair are called 'hairless.'

Two rats belong to the same variety if they share the trait in question, regardless of the rats' ancestry. Also, a single rat may belong to more than one variety, such 'dumbo' and 'rex.'

A variety is therefore a purely descriptive category, it says nothing about the biological relationship between rats."

hey rexy...

True or False...there are no purebred rats in the pet world?

Rat species, strains, breeds and types: "Breed

A breed, according to Webster's Dictionary again, is a group of animals presumably related by descent from common ancestors and visibly similar in most characteristics. A more precise definition of breed is found in Desmond Morris' book Dogs: the ultimate dictionary of over 1,000 dog breeds. According to Morris' definition, a breed is a type of animal that differs from all others of the same species in some way, has a separate history and breed name, and has been breeding true for a number of generations. So, beagle and Doberman are examples of different dog breeds.

According to this definition, there are no separate breeds of rats (yet).

A purebred animal (again according to Webster's) refers to a member of a recognized breed, strain or kind without admixture of other blood over many generations.

So, because there are no separate breeds of rats, there are no purebred rats in the pet world. There are, however, many different strains of rats in laboratories, and a rat from one of those strains could conceivably be called purebred. However, 'purebred' is a term that is never used in laboratory rat breeding."

Im a 'Blue Blood' Rat...

Could this come under Rat cloning? hmmm

Rat species, strains, breeds and types: "Rat strains refer to laboratory rats that have been bred in isolation for generations. A rat strain is created through breeding to produce rats that are similar to each other and can therefore be used in research. Wistar, Fisher, and Sprague Dawley, and their hundreds of internal divisions, are examples of rat strains. (index of major rat strains; rat genome database)."

Could this come under Rat cloning? hmmm

All Rats are related

Rat species, strains, breeds and types: "Species

Almost all domestic pet rats and lab rats belong to a single species, the Norway rat (Rattus norvegicus). A tiny number of black rats (Rattus rattus) are also kept as pets, but as yet they are extremely rare in the pet trade.

The classic definition of a species is a group of related individuals or populations which are potentially capable of interbreeding and producing fertile offspring.

There are many different species of rodent in the wild that bear the common name 'rat.' Naked mole rats, wood rats, kangaroo rats, cotton rats, pack rats, and many others are examples of different species."

6 degrees of seperation relations...I'm a relative on Uncle Mortys side because...

First there was Marty the Rat...

Guardian Unlimited | Special reports | After Dolly the sheep comes Snuppy the puppy: "Over the years researchers in various laboratories cloned more sheep, piglets, mice, rabbits, cows, rats and mules. A US biotech company launched itself under the name Genetic Savings and Clone and cloned a procession of pet cats on demand. But attempts to duplicate a dog seemed to go nowhere."

First there was Marty the Rat...then Dolly the sheep after comes Snuppy the puppy

Rats have been cloned

First cloned dog brought to life - PittsburghLIVE.com: "Cloning animals is nothing new -- everything from cows to rats have been cloned. But dog duplication has eluded scientists since Dolly the sheep was born a decade ago"

rat ten multiplicity...