A Basic Rat Diet...

Fancy rat - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia: "Pet stores can provide basic food for rats that provides their nutritional needs, but they also enjoy fresh vegetables and fruits, and small amounts of cooked chicken or beef (cooled to a safe temperature, without spices or sauces). The diet should optimally not comprise of more than 25% animal protein. Studies have shown that high protein intake shortens their lifespan and increases the likelihood of kidney trouble. A belief is that some rats may develop 'protein sores' at levels over 25%, however this correlation is not scientifically proven. It is also possible that a large consumption of certain types of proteins (seeds or dairy) can induce allergic reactions in certain rats.

Not all foods are suitable for rats. Certain foods like raw beans and sweets/candies are not recommended. Many household plants, like the leaves of the tomato, are poisonous and dangerous to a rat's health. Like with most other animals (including humans), rats show poor judgement when it comes to food. Rats are often unable to decide which foods are good for them and consequently they will usually eat anything that is offered. Unlike with dogs (and other domestic animals) chocolate is completely non-toxic to rats, but it should only be fed in small quantities because it is very high in food energy and sugar. Due to its beneficial effect as a bronchiodilator it can be useful to offer a small amount of good quality dark chocolate to rats suffering from respiratory problems.

Rats should also always have fresh water available. Appropriate drinking devices such as gravity drip-feed bottles can be found in stores. Both water and vegetables must be fresh and have to be exchanged frequently, usually once a day. Water must not be given in open jars, since it is likely to get polluted, or spilled.

Solid food components can be divided into three categories: dry, fresh, and animal food. Dry food usually makes up the main part in this listing. Many pet stores now stock commercial rat mixes and lab blocks specifically designed to cater to the dietary needs of rats, as most ordinary rodent mixes usually contain too high a level of fatty seeds and not enough protein. Most other kinds of seeds, kernels, and nuts can be given. Care should be taken to limit the amount of fat contained within the diet. Especially sunflower seeds, nuts, almonds, and sesame are most nutritive and are to be considered as a treat rather than as basic food. It is becoming common practice among many ratbreeders to make up their own mixes which often contain a balanced blend of cereals, whole grains, and puppy biscuits amongst other ingredients; dried corn should be avoided because it may contain fungus and will create carsinogenic nitrosamines in the stomach.

Poisonous plants (check all indoor plants) may constitute a danger; particularly as rats are not able to vomit and therefore cannot regurgitate the poisonous matter.

And for Madame and Monsieur Fancy Rat onto tonights menu theres...

More Rat Triveal Pursuit...

Rat Palace: "

Rats have an excellent sense of smell.
Their hearing is ultrasonic.
Their average life span is 2 - 3 years.
Their average litter size is l2.
There is a National Fancy Rat Society.
Teddy Roosevelt had pet rats in the White House.
Rats are nocturnal, but can adjust to their owners schedule.

Too many rat facts, how about a new board game Rat Triveal Pursuit..

Rats may have sex 20 times a day

: "Rats may have sex 20 times a day."

Thought that would get your attention ;-) ...but it is true Rats may have sex 20 times a day.

Rats need company...

Pet Rat Information Sheet - all you need for happy healthy pet rats: "Rats are highly intelligent, social animals, and although they enjoy the companionship of humans, they thrive in - and need - the company of their own species. Although they will usually survive if kept as single pets, pet care is not just a matter of keeping animals alive; rats will have happier and more interesting lives when kept with other rats. Rats should never live alone, and ideally should be kept in groups of two or more of the same sex. It is unfair to deprive any social animal of the company of its own species. Rats enjoy grooming each other, curling up to sleep together, and sometimes even fighting. It is usual for rats to scrap occasionally, especially when they are 'teenagers' between 3 and 6 months old; do not worry about this unless you see serious injuries, as the rats are just establishing a pecking order.

No matter how much time you can spend with your rat, you will never be able to replace the attentions of his own species. A rat's most active time is in the middle if the night, when most rat owners are unlikely to be able to provide their pet with companionship. One fear expressed by potential rat-owners is that if they get more than one rat, the animals will bond together and be less tame as a result. The opposite is usually the case, as solitary rats can easily become clingy, introverted and neurotic. Rats kept in pairs or groups are happier, more confident, and no more difficult to tame. If you want proof of this, go to a rat show or visit someone who keeps a group of rats as pets. You will be able to meet plenty of extrovert, confident rats and their ratty friends. We are not aware of any sound argument for keeping rats alone, but there are many good reasons to let them live in single-sex pairs or groups: two rats are as easy to look after as one, a cage that is big enough for one rat is big enough for a pair, two rats are much happier and live longer than single rats --and they're many times more interesting to watch! Do not worry about a pair of rats producing unwanted babies - rats should be kept in single-sex groups to avoid this, and it is very easy to tell the difference between males and females with a little experience.

Social butterfly, no Social Rat

Rat Temperaments...

pets: Rats in the house?: "Temperament
They are friendly and sociable animals, preferring to live in large groups, either with humans or a mix of rats and humans. They will often look to include their keeper in their social circle and if allowed, will give you as much affection as a cat or dog will. They're fairly inteligent, too, easily learning to use a litter box and to come when called, and they'll soon learn the sound of their favourite treats being brought out, too!

Another great thing about rats is that it's incredibly rare for a domestic rat to bite if they have been raised and socialised properly. Their instinct is to run away if they can. If you are holding them, their reaction will be rather less pleasant, but better than a nip from a disgruntled hamster (it'll all wash off)

Pleasant pets...

Rat Facts on health...

rattyrat.com

Rats cannot have or give rabies.

Every ten days of a rats life, equals one human year.

A rats average life span is between 2-3 years.

Rats keep their teeth trim by constantly grinding them together. What this means is, is that a rat's teeth generally won't overgrow unless their jaw alignment is off, or if they have stopped grinding their teeth for some reason (such as an abscessed tooth.)

Rats cannot burp.

Rats cannot vomit.

Rats can and do fart.

Female rats can start developing mammary tumors at the age of 18 months.

Rats synthesize their own vitamin C and vitamin K.

A rat's tail helps regulate a rat's body temperature.

To much sugar can cause a rat to have diarrhea.

Rats practice "coprophagy", which is the eating of their feces to obtain the vitamins from them. Rabbits also do this.

Rats are "omnivorous". This means that they eat both plants and animals.

and no red cordial either...

Physical Rat Facts

rattyrat.com

A rat's sense of smell is excellent, even exceeding that of a dogs.

Rats have extreme hearing capabilities, even in the ultrasonic ranges.

Rats communicate much of their language on a sound frequency that the human ear cannot hear.

Rats are poorly nearsighted.

Rats do not see three dimensionally, thus having no depth perception.

Rats are color blind.

A rat's vision is geared for spotting movement.

Pink eyed rats have much poorer vision than black eyed rats.

Their four front incisors (teeth) grow at about four to five inches per year.

A rat's tail helps them keep their balance.

Rats molt throughout their lives, loosing old hair, and gaining new hair. While they are molting they will have patches of lighter, softer hair throughout their bodies. This is more noticeable in babies. If they have a hairless gene in their background, or if they are a rex, they may even develop bald patches while molting.

More than meets the rat eye...

Rodney is the longets living recorded Rat....

rattyrat.com
According to the Guinness Book of World Records, the longest-lived rat was named Rodney. He lived for 7 years and 4 months.

Now if 1 human year is equilavent to 7 dog years...then 1 human year in rat years is...?

Fancy Rat Colours?

Rats: Colours: "The 'original' colour of the rat in the wild is dark rich brown, commonly known as Agouti but as rats have been bred over the years a number of colour mutations have occurred.

By combining the different colour mutations it is possible to breed a further variety of colours.

Agouti: The original wild colour. The rat has a rich brown coat ticked through with black hairs, black eyes and grey ears.

Cinnamon: The coat is mid brown. The eyes are black and the ears are grey.

Black: The coat is jet black over the back, sides and belly. The eyes are black and the ears are grey.

Albino: The coat is pure white to the roots, the eyes are red and the ears are flesh coloured.

Himalayan: The coat is pure white to the roots with coloured nose, ears, feet and tail.

Siamese: The coat is light beige becoming darker around the head and rear.

Blue: The coat is blue grey over the back, sides and belly. The eyes are black and the ears are grey.

Silver Fawn: The coat is ginger, sprinkled through with white hairs. The eyes are red and the ears flesh coloured.

Rainbow Rats...

Rats History

Rats: History: "The domestic or fancy rat is descended from the Brown Rat (also known as the Norwegian Rat) and is thought to have originated from Asia moving into Europe in 1553 and then onto the US in 1775. It lives in burrows and is a good swimmer and can often be found inhabiting sewers.

There can be much prejudice against the rat due to the spread of plague, but it was the Black Rat that played a part in this epidemic and it was not the rat itself that carried the plague but the fleas that it carried.

In the early 1800s rats were kept, and bred and used for ratting contests where rats were released and terriers were competed as 'rat catchers'. In the late 1800s rats were bred in captivity for scientific research into nutrition, intelligence and disease and it was noted in the laboratories that the rat was highly suited as a pet due to its intelligence and tameness. By the late 1800s rats were kept in captivity as pets and by the early 1900s had become a popular pet. However, the keeping of rats as pets declined in later years due to the introduction of more 'appealing' pets such as the hamster but the popularity of the rat as a pet is once again rising."

In 1800 rats were kept as pets...

Fancy a Rat?

Rats: Fancy Rats, Domestic Pet Rats: "he Fancy Rat's ancestor is the Brown Rat, also known as the sewer rat (Rattus norvegicus) which can be seen in the wild. Bred in captivity in sterile conditions in laboratories has resulted in a disease free and friendly pet that today is referred to as the Fancy Rat.

Males are larger and plumper than females, with full-grown males males being approximately 20-25cm from nose to the base of the tail and females being 16-18cm in length. The head is pointed and the tail is hairless.

The rat is a sociable pet appreciating the company of others. Rats are nocturnal becoming more active in the evenings and during the night. Rats are intelligent and affectionate making them extremely good pets.

The average lifespan of a rat is 2-2½ years although they can live longer and up to 3-4 years has been known."

Hmmm...Fancy a Rat?

Buying A Rat

Buying A Rat: "The best place always to buy a rat is directly from a private or hobbyist breeder but this may not always be possible and therefore many rat owners buy their first rat from a pet shop.

The advantages of buying from a private or hobbyist breeder is that breeding has usually been carefully planned and thought through with regard to producing robust, healthy rats of good temperament. They are not the result of commercial breeding of mass numbers of rats. You will also have the opportunity to see the parents and know the date of birth of the rat you intend to purchase. Private and hobbyist breeders regularly handle their babies and so any rats they sell are used to being handled. Unfortunately the same cannot always been said for rats sold in pet shops that have come from commercial breeders."

Hobby breeders know best...

Rattie house cleaning tips

Keep it clean!: "I was cleaning a cage out the other day and I have to say it: ratty housekeeping really is not that hard. Of course, the more cages the more work. But I can have a bottom pan cleaned and dried and back on the cage in about 5 minutes. It’s nothing to do one cage in the morning before I go to work.

I’ve already shared some of my cleaning tips; now, I’ll add some more.

Don’t overwork -- often if you just wet the tray or the food bowls and let them sit, the crud will soften up and come off. Then, wipe with a soapy sponge to really get things moving and rinse in hot water. Don’t use antibacterials! They’re not strong enough to really kill the bugs so all they’re doing is making the bugs STRONGER.

I believe that at this moment: I am the only person in New York City that uses a washboard. I mean it. Just squeezing the soap through the rags wasn’t doing it. And my hands were getting raw rubbing the scurf out of them. So I trotted off to the hardware store and they dug one up for me. It took a while to figure out how to use it (I couldn’t find where to put the quarter…) But now I love that thing! You can scrub out a stain or some petrified banana without raking your knuckles down to the bone. So get a washboard!

I have a wooden nest box. It looks like it’s sealed with something inside and out: this I wash with soap and water like anything else. Just don’t soak it because it will warp and then you can use it for a fruit bowl.

I also let the kids have cardboard boxes. They get gross pretty fast but you can make them last longer if you make them BOTTOMLESS: so your shelf covering is the interior floor and you can clean it.

I cover my shelves with thick layers of newspaper. When they are soiled, I peel off the dirty layers until I get down to the clean ones.

I bed on shredded paper towels along with the rags: plain paper towels that I run through the office shredder. I put a piece of cardboard in the waste bag, so I can keep my shreds separate"

Too easy to keep it clean!...

Is a rat for you?

Is a rat for you?: "It is so easy to know if you should get a rat. If the possibility has ever occurred to you, you should get a rat. I mean it. If you can hold the words 'rat' and 'pet' in your head right now, stop reading this article and go get a rat.

If a rat’s not for you, it would NEVER have occurred to you. So just get your wallet right now, and go get the rat. While it’s kind of late for me to outline the positives, I guess I will anyway: I have to write about something:

• Pet Rats are cleaner than cats. It’s actually insulting: when you scratch them, they’ll often wash themselves off obsessively when you’re not looking.

• Pet Rats are so loving of humans they are almost Labrador-like. My alpha Ick! used to dose on my foot in the morning while I brushed my hair.

• Pet Rats depend on you more than a cat but not as much as a dog (you can leave them for the weekend).

• You can take a pet rat anywhere. Mine routinely go to work (NY Ad Agency) with me on the NYC subway.

• Pet Rats are SMART and they have an hysterical sense of humor.

• Pet Rats are can be litter box trained.

Don't waste anymore time. What are ya waiting for? Just go get the rat.

Want a pet and have limited time space and budget? How about a Pocket Pet?

Introduction to Pet Rats 101: "Perhaps this is seen as a passing phase, but we rat owners know better. With the limited time, space and budgets more and more people have these days, it is easy to see how rats are fitting in as ideal companions. They sleep during the day and will be awake just when their owners come home and need de-stressing. Two same-sex rats (the minimum requirement!) take up only the space of their cage. And rats are very inexpensive to maintain (barring unexpected vet bills, of course). All this combined with their loving, cheerful natures and human-like qualities (Yes -- they're lazy and love junk food, sleep, good friends and a good cuddle just like most people I know!) make them perfect pets. And they will, if properly socialized, enjoy tagging along in a pocket or sweater while their owners do errands, making waiting in line at various places not so tedious!"

Today's pet rats are descended from wild rats of the species rattus norvegicus, otherwise known as Norway rats or brown rats. They are very hardy, intelligent animals which have followed humans around the globe, sharing their garbage and grain for centuries. Domestication of the rat began in the 1800's or so in England where rat catchers separated out unusual colored rats for pets. They were very fashionable pets -- author Beatrix Potter is reported to have had a pet white rat named Sammy. The interest in rats died out for a time but has recently begun an intense upswing. There are rat clubs, which hold regular rat shows where you can find fancy rats of all colors and textures. Many rat breeders don't supply pet stores with snake food at all, but breed gorgeous, friendly rats for the pet and/or show market. And there are societies being formed to rescue abandoned or abused rats and to protect rats' rights. In this column I hope to explore many more tidbits of information about these fascinating pets with you.

...Pet Pocket Power...yeah!

Four paws up...Training your pet rat

Training Your Pet Rat by Gerry Bucsis and Barbara Somerville: "For those of you interested in doing more with your rats than just watching them sleep and eat and having them run around and chew things up every once in a while, this is the perfect book for you. Gerry Bucsis and Barbara Somerville have written a great introduction to rats, including some very useful information on how to train your rats and keep them alert and active. The whole emphasis of the book is on training and playing with rats and has sections with great titles like, 'The perfect house for home-schooling' and 'Class size - one rat, two rats, three rats four?'

The book begins with a very nice section on selecting the right housing, bedding and food for your rat. The authors are very thorough with details on how to choose healthy bedding and how to make a very comfortable and interesting home for your rats. Following that comes a great section on choosing a rat and trust-training as well as keeping rats from chewing up your whole house! I love how they cover all the aspects of things like finding great cage accessories and toys - from fancy, store-bought ferret items to do-it-yourself projects that don't cost a penny.

Much of the rest of the book is dedicated to training your rat - from something as relatively simple as walking on a leash, to things that would make any movie director sit up and roll over! They have excellent suggestions on how to set up a play and training area that is safe and fun. With some 'squeak and treat' training, your rat will learn how to come, to sit up, to ride happily on your shoulders and even learn to distinguish shapes for an impressive-sounding trick. I haven't given their method a thorough testing yet, but I plan to soon! It sounds like it will work perfectly if you stick to the rules and if your rat is a happy, relaxed learner. They even have a nice section on mazes and games that rats like. If you want to go farther with training your rat, this book lays "

Much of the rest of the book is dedicated to training your rat - from something as relatively simple as walking on a leash, to things that would make any movie director sit up and roll over! They have excellent suggestions on how to set up a play and training area that is safe and fun. With some "squeak and treat" training, your rat will learn how to come, to sit up, to ride happily on your shoulders and even learn to distinguish shapes for an impressive-sounding trick. I haven't given their method a thorough testing yet, but I plan to soon! It sounds like it will work perfectly if you stick to the rules and if your rat is a happy, relaxed learner. They even have a nice section on mazes and games that rats like. If you want to go farther with training your rat, this book lays the foundations for a whole lot of other things you could think up and try out using "squeak-treat"!

Other nice sections of this book are the chapter on traveling with rats, and a section with tips and hints for rat care. The only problems I have with their information is that they recommend a two-week quarantine for new rats, which I feel is a bit too short. Also they seem to recommend bathing your rat once a month - something my rats would think was horrible torture for animals that normally keep themselves so clean. But a once-a-month bath won't hurt much, unless the rat gets overly chilled, and it sure will get your rat used to being handled and splashing about in water very fast!

Rattie...fetch the ball, fetch the ball...sit...shake...roll over...good rattie good!

Having trouble bonding with your pet rat? Try these tips...

Bonding.: "If you’re having trouble convincing your rat that humans are the greatest -- DO NOT PANIC. I don’t how tough a cookie your rat appears to be: bites, runs away from you, won’t even approach for treats, you can’t grab him, you can’t hang on to him. Hear me: the day is going to come when you have to sneak pass the cage because as soon as the rat sees you: he wants you to pick him up and scratch him."

Here are some tips that will help: First, remember the 3 rules of being a good guest – rats or humans. When visiting: #1 Always knock before entering. #2 Bring a housegift (a treat) #3 When you leave, take out the garbage (handful of soiled litter).

That’s usually enough. But if your rat still isn’t coming around, begin the Forced Socialization Method. Right this minute. It gets fast and good bonding results with your rats. People who flatly state that their rat is incorrigible and untrainable, eat their words after using this method. If he’s a bitey rat, wear those cotton gardening gloves with the little rubber dots if you have to. But believe me, you probably won't need to use them more than TWICE.

Every day, you pick each rat out of the cage and hold him for 20 minutes. NO SHORTCUTS -- TIME IT. Rats can't maintain their fear for 20 minutes and it just burns itself out. Mix up the 20 minutes: hold the rat in your hands for a while, then put the rat in your shirt for a while, (wear a t shirt under a shirt and put the rat between them. Not your best shirts...), hold the rat on your lap for awhile, put the rat on your shoulder, let the rat walk on you: just don't let the rat get away. If you have to hold the rat in your hands for 20 minutes: so be it. Watch TV or something. My favorite story is from a ratter who was sure she had the Beast from Hell. At the end of the first session, the rat YAWNED. That’s when she knew it was all going to work out just fine.

Also, buy, in paperback, The Tellington Ttouch by Linda Tellington-Jones, and learn this method of animal massage: you will get results. They bond great with this, they get smarter, they get healthier. When you are holding the rat, give him the massage.

Additional note: if your rat intentionally nips, SQUEAK LOUD AND MAD when he does it and pull your finger back a little. THIS they understand. But please try to differentiate real nipping from "food testing": sometimes when you first get them, they go through this period of "nibbling" your fingers before they figure out what is food and what is you.

Remember, in the beginning, rats are like babies: treat them as such: with gentleness, patience, love and understanding. The first time they take a treat from your hand, appreciate what brave little creatures they are to come so close to the big giant.

Now tame as a kitten...